Nestled on the coast of northwest Africa, Cape Verde has long been drawing in tourists thanks to its laidback charm.
If you want the Caribbean experience, but without the hefty price tag, then this archipelago is sure to be the destination that keeps on giving – all year round.
Andrew Gilpin went exploring and reveals why he was so charmed by life in Cape Verde – and why you will be too…
What’s included in the guide:
About Cape Verde
Sal Island
The hotels
Santa Maria
The nightlife
The best activities to try
Kite surfing is a must on the long sandy beaches of Cape Verde( )
About Cape Verde
It was less Finding Nemo, more discovering nausea. Speeding through Cape Verde’s crystal clear waters with flying fish to one side and giant turtles to the other, I should have been in heaven.
But rather than the tuna, wahoo and blue marlin that we were hunting in our fishing trip, I was concentrating on holding on to my breakfast.
Not that the crew took much notice of my greenish gills as they crashed the boat through the waves, hanging out fishing lines.
But later, safely back on dry land, I realised that it’s precisely this laid-back, unpolished approach to tourism that adds to Cape Verde’s considerable charm.
Sited 350 miles off the west coast of Africa, the islands are sunny all year round with a welcome breeze that makes you forget it’s actually sweltering.
Cape Verde consists of 10 islands and they are so different in look, feel and even climate that travelling around them could feel like 10 different holidays.
Sal Island
We stayed on Sal – or ‘salt’ in Portuguese – which is close enough to be accessible (around a 5.5hr flight) and far away enough to offer rough-round-the-edges easy charm (as in the fishing trip).
And for me, that’s one of the real selling points of Cape Verde. It’s often described as the “new Caribbean” but, although the five-star option is there for those who want it, it’s not quite that slick.
The locals are not jaded by tourism like many more established destinations and they’re actually pleased to sit down and chat.
“No stress,” is something you’ll hear a lot here, and they’re a friendly bunch who are happy to see you and mingle on the pristine beaches or in soulful music bars after dark.
Some of the accommodation on offer at the Melia Llama in Cape Verde
The hotels
The luxury hotel complexes that have sprung up in the old Portuguese colony – discovered in 1456 but largely uninhabited, unless it was being sacked by Sir Francis Drake – are everything you’d expect from more developed destinations.
On the south tip of the island – near the historic and beautiful port town of Santa Maria – is the Melia group of hotels. One is adults-only and ideal for the romantic getaway or honeymoon, the other is family-friendly with water parks and a kids’ amphitheatre.
We were staying at the all-inclusive Melia Llana, the adults-only option, with accommodation and food of Caribbean standards, with an Italian restaurant and a mind-blowing sushi place that makes the best of the local catch of the day.
You can laze by the pool at the Melia Llama resort(DAVID RALITA)
The pool areas are spacious. If you book a villa you can have your own private one. If you fancy even more opulence then trade up to The Level, which gives you access to exclusive pools and even more upscale food and drink.
There’s a Marbella-style beach bar perched on the edge of the ocean for those who want to change the pace either up or down depending what time of day it is.
But with so much to see, you can’t simply stay in the hotel (although actually, you probably could).
The breeze makes you forget it’s actually sweltering on the African islands(DAVID RALITA)
Santa Maria
Nearby Santa Maria is well worth a visit. The taxi ride is only about €5 – euros are widely accepted here although the local currency is the escudo, which can only be bought in Cape Verde.
Santa Maria is the place where the fresh catch of the day is proudly paraded on the pier front before it makes its way to the island’s restaurants and hotels.
It boasts the 23rd best beach in the world, Praia de Santa Maria, which doesn’t disappoint – and I’ve been to Rhyl.
There we ate at Odjo d’Auga where the tuna carpacchio is a must; drizzled in olive oil and full of crushed peppercorns, it’s perfect eating on a warm night as you watch the waves roll in.
You live in the lap of luxury on Sal island in Cape Verde
A starter sets you back €8, a fresh fish main €18, with a bottle of house wine such as Portuguese rose €25.
The nightlife
After the meal we were lured into the nightlife by the far off beats of a roaming drum band.
When we tracked them down through the winding cobbled streets, we saw dancing everywhere. Literally everywhere.
Outside the bar, inside on the tables and even up and down the street revellers followed in their wake as they loudly made their way through the streets.
Andy Gilpin is a little worse for wear after a rather choppy fishing trip
That night was full of dancing and cocktails, but to make the most of your surroundings – and work off the hangover – you need to hit the water.
The best activities to try
Cape Verde has all the elements for great kite-surfing with its Atlantic breezes and wide sandy beaches.
But don’t expect to get out there straight away. Kite-surfing takes time and you’ll need lessons on how to control your kite before you even think about getting on the water.
A lesson with a smiling lad called Gene cost us €30 as he took us through the basics on the beach in a friendly, patient style.
On the water the wind grabs your kite-sail and pulls you over the waves on a specially-made board, with the skills you learn on the beach the key to skipping up and down in the air.
Some of the quaint streets on the island of Sal( )
Quad biking is the most exhilarating way to explore the island. Like the sea fishing, it’s not a polished holiday experience – and all the better for it.
But it’s also not for the faint-hearted as you dart up and down the sand dunes guided by adrenaline and your wits. From salt mines (hence the island’s Portuguese name) to the Buracona Lagoon – the Blue Eye – there’s plenty to see.
Santa Maria is the focal point for fishermen hoping to sell on their catch
In the dusty capital Espargos you catch a glimpse of local life as card players sit outside shanty shops looking like they don’t have a care in the world – a sentiment that sums up Cape Verde perfectly.
If you want polished opulence head for the Caribbean. If you want to explore ancient monuments and old churches, this isn’t for you either. But if you want a relaxed, unfussy all-year-round break next to blue seas, this is a good option.
For somewhere that’s just two hours flight time south of Tenerife, Cape Verde feels far more exotic.
It truly is the “no stress” place to be. Even on a rolling fishing boat.
Top travel tips
BOOK IT: Rooms at the five-star adults only Melia Llana hotel in Sal, Cape Verde, start at £159 a night. For more information visit melia.com.
GET THERE: Flights to Cape Verde are available from London, Glasgow and Manchester with Thomson (direct) or TAP Portugal (via Lisbon) with fares from around £400 return. For more information visit thomson.co.uk/flight and flytap.com.
MORE INFORMATION: Visit capeverde.com
Source link : https://www.mirror.co.uk/travel/africa/cape-verde-relaxing-holiday-destination-11135376.amp
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Publish date : 2017-09-11 07:00:00
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