Getty Images
SÃO VICENTE
Santiago may have the Cape Verdean capital, but the islands’ cultural and political heart is the São Vicente port of Mindelo. It is the most sophisticated city in the archipelago and the hub of its music industry (when not in her adopted Paris, Evora lives here); and over the years it has been a breeding ground for poets and revolutionaries educated at its lycée. Mindelo has one of the archipelago’s most venerable music venues, the Café Musica on Rua Lisboa, and several shops specialising in Cape Verdean music. And each August, at full moon, the island hosts a three-day festival of Cape Verdean music on the beach at the Baia das Gatas (‘bay of cats’) on the east coast. The Cape Verde Cultural Centre, in a converted warehouse on the quayside, is worth visiting. It has a workshop selling traditional fabrics, a small museum and bookshop, a cafeteria in the leafy courtyard and one of the many Internet cafes in the islands. Although Saõ Pedro has a good hotel – Hotel Foya Branca – it is a fly-blown one-horse hamlet with little to commend it beyond its beach. The windsurfing is excellent, but it points up that tiresome corollary of any windsurfing beach: however good the surfing, it’s perfect hell for anyone who just wants to use the beach.
Where to stay in Cape VerdeSALODJO D’AGUA HOTEL
One of the best places to stay is this small, locally owned hotel. It has a garden, a pool, anachronistically decorated rooms (antiques and curios, fishing equipment and so on) and an open-air restaurant-bar jutting out into the sea, where you can dine as the Atlantic rollers crash past. Its menu tends towards steak and burgers, but also includes freshly caught fish such as wahoo.
(+238 242 1400; odjodagua-hotel.com)
SANTIAGOPESTANA TRÓPICO HOTEL
This is the best place to stay. Built around a large pool, it is quiet, airy and spacious, with generously proportioned rooms and suites, plus a bar and restaurant. Here, as at most other restaurants in the islands, the cuisine will typically include bacalhau (cod) or the Cape Verde staple cachupa, a distant relative of paella or gumbo which comes pobre (‘poor’, ie vegetarian) or rica (‘rich’, with meat or fish). Cachupa takes a long time to prepare, so order it a day in advance.
Praia (00 238 261 4200, pestana.com).
SAO VICENTEHOTEL OÁSIS ATLÂNTICO PORTO GRAND
Mindelo has at least one decent international hotel, where the decor is rather conference-hotel anonymous but the restaurant is good, tending towards a Cape Verdean version of nouvelle, with fried goat’s cheese starters, avant-garde salads and exotic sauces. It also has a large swimming pool and terrace.
Mindelo (00 238 232 1176; oasisatlantico.com).
Where to eat out in Cape VerdeFOGOLE BISTRO
This is the best place to eat in Sao Filipe, it juggles pasta and other international dishes with Cape Verdean staples. Afterwards, check out Club Trópico for a taste of how São Filipe rocks.
SAO VICENTECHEZ LOUTCHA
This hotel/restaurant has local musicians playing Cape Verdean folk on Wednesdays and Fridays, and the food is delicious, with perhaps 50 different dishes of chicken, goat, fish and seafood, including the inevitable cachupa.
Rua de Coco, C.P. 303, Mindelo (+238 232 1636, chezloutcha.com)
Source link : https://www.cntraveller.com/article/travel-guide-cape-verde
Author :
Publish date : 2009-11-11 08:00:00
Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source.
